Surfing
I love to surf I have been surfing sense
I was 9 so I have been surfing for about 5 years. My whole family surfs,
my dad, and my brothers also surf. My dad surfs a lot he surfs the most
out of our whole family because he is very in to it. He surfs sometimes
before he has to go to work for about 3 hours. But ever Sunday I surf and
some times I surf on Saturdays.
I usually surf up at Morro
Bay just north of the rock. I like to surf there because you can surf
it both ways you can surf it long board our you can surf it short board.
I usually surf it long board because I don't have enough money to buy a
new one yet, but when I do I will get back into short
boarding. Another reason why I surf there is because its the only point
with a left break and I like that because I'm I surf goofy and goofy riders
usually like to ride left brakes.
My favorite place I have ever surfed would
have to be Trestles a little south of Newport Beach were I was born. Why
this is my favorite place you ask is because it has the best brake for
short boarders that you will ever see because the waves are usually about
4 to 5 feet which isn't that big but it the waves are so fast and they
are so step that you well get on hell of a ride. If its big enough you
can get barreled.
My second favorite place to surf is
California Street in Ventura. Even though it has a right brake I still
have fun. Its still a little hared for me to surf back side but I can still
do it. Every Christmas breaks my dad; brothers, uncle, cousin and I go
down there for 3 days and its always a great size. We always stay in this
hotel called the Holiday inn its a big hotel about 100 yards away from
the point. When we stay there we usually surf 2 to 3 times a day. My cousin
is 15 and he is pretty good he has a lot of really nice boards and there
all short boards and he is really good with them. My favorite board of
his is his 5’10, M10 Rat Boy. Its my favorite
board because it has a lot of whip to it because it is a fish tall and
that gives it to maneuver really well.
So now you know what my favorite surfboard
is and were my favorite surf spot is, so know you know how much I love
to surf and were I love to surf.